Lastly, if a low amperage, gfp breaker does not exist and using the higher amperage breaker in series is a bad idea, how am I to construct a system that complies with the NEC guidelines? thanks in advance for any feedback. Does that make sense or is it a bad idea to use such a breaker in series with a the 20A breaker? If no such breaker exists, would it be acceptable to use Midnite's breaker? my thinking is that since the breakers will be in series, for any overcurrent issue the 20A breaker will trip and if there is a ground fault issue, the GFP breaker on the negative/ground side will trip itself along with its coupled 63A breaker. Does anyone know of anyone that sells a 20A/0.5A GFP? You typically find these outlets in kitchens and bathrooms, but also near pools and anywhere else where electricity is used near water. These devices are designed to prevent shock in the event an electrical device comes in contact with water. The smallest I could find is a Midnite brand 63A (+ side)/ 0.5A (neg./ground side). A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is a specialized outlet with a built-in breaker. The problem I'm running into is that after an extensive google search, I can find no GFP breaker this small. My understanding is that the GFP and standard breaker should be of the same amperage. In keeping with NEC guidelines I'm intending to install both a standard 20A breaker and GFP (ground fault protection) breaker in series between the panels and controller. ![]() I have not seen a GFPE breaker, and only circulating hot water de-icing systems.I have a very small system I'm building (off grid solar) that will only need a 20A breaker between the panels and MPPT charge controller. Reading that, IMHO it sounds like the GFPE is supplied as part of the de-icing equipment, to protect the equipment only, not the feeder. Are GE and BR breakers the only ones that currently have removed. It is important to understand that this required equipment protection is not the same as a GFCI used for personal protection that trips at 5 mA (± 1 mA)." ![]() These protection devices, if applied properly, will substantially reduce the risk of a fire being started by low-level electrical arcing. If money is an issue and you only need to protect a single location, a GFCI outlet might a better choice than a GFCI breaker. A GFCI breaker might cost you 40 or 50, versus 4 to 6 for a standard breaker. ![]() This could work out well if really all you need to protect is one location only. Cost can also be a factor in the decision. Clearly, if money is an issue, then you should consider a GFCI outlet. A GFCI receptacle’s price is somewhere around 15. This required protection for fixed outdoor deicing and snow-melting equipment may be accomplished by using circuit breakers equipped with ground-fault equipment protection (GFEP) or an integral device supplied as part of the deicing or snow-melting equipment that is sensitive to leakage currents in the magnitude of 6 mA to 50 mA. A GFCI breaker might cost you 40 or 50, versus a standard version breaker which costs 4 to 6. This affords the manufacturer and the user an option of providing both circuit and equipment protection or just the required equipment protection. Rather than protecting the entire branch circuit, the ground-fault protection requirement is focused on protecting just the equipment itself. Are GE and BR breakers the only ones that currently have removed. "Section 426.28 requires ground-fault protection of equipment for fixed outdoor electric deicing and snow-melting equipment. I did some searching here and on the web, but couldnt find anything recent. ![]() The problem Im running into is that after an extensive google search, I can find no GFP. Perhaps the following commentary from the '08 NEC Handbook. In keeping with NEC guidelines Im intending to install both a standard 20A breaker and GFP (ground fault protection) breaker in series between the panels and controller.
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